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+ "An Obedient Dissident" 27 September, Buraydah from Martin Smith
In 1993, a group of clerics led a march through the streets of this
city protesting official government corruption and loose morals that
they felt were destroying Arabian society. The central authorities don't
receive such criticism easily. They cracked down, arresting a number of
the clerics during what has popularly become known as the "Buraydah
Uprising." Among those arrested was Sheikh Salman Al-Oudah, a man whose
following had grown so numerous and threatening to the royal family that
he was imprisoned for five years. We have sought him out, and he has
agreed to speak.
We have to wait until about 10:00 at night before his day has cleared
and he can receive us. We are ushered through a gate and into a large
tent adjacent to his home and office. Since his release from jail in
1998, he has been forbidden from giving sermons at the mosque. So he
circumvents the restriction by hosting gatherings in this tent and by
publishing his views on his own Web site, at [www.islamtoday.net.]
I am eager to talk to him. Al-Oudah is a man who knew Osama bin Laden, a
man to whom bin Laden looked for guidance and support in the past,
according to U.S. intelligence sources to whom I have spoken.
He arrives with a small entourage after we have already set up our
cameras, but he asks to sit aside with me and his retinue to discuss
some ground rules before the camera rolls. "What do you want to ask me?"
he says through a translator. I run down all the areas I hope we can
discuss. They include his views toward the current crown prince,
corruption, Wahhabi religious practices, the coming war in Iraq, the war
between Palestine and Israel, as well as Osama bin Laden and Al Qaeda.
He responds that he will only talk about his views regarding U.S.
policies in the Middle East. I realize that this man is still under a
kind of house arrest. If he criticizes the royals, especially the crown
prince, he risks being re-arrested. I am not about to interview a
dissident but to listen to a neutered cleric demonstrate his obedience
to the throne.
It is a long-held arrangement in Saudi Arabia that was forged in the
mid-18th century between the then Al Saud family and a puritanical
religious reformer, Mohammed Abdul al Wahhab. The clerics will support
the Al Saud rulers and, in return, the Al Sauds will protect and provide
for the Wahhabi or Salifi (as they prefer to be called here) clerics. It
is an arrangement between church and state that finds precedent in
Islam's holy book, the Quran. Religious leaders must pay allegiance to
the government that protects them. In Al-Oudah I am witnessing this
tacit understanding. As mild as it was, a mere march with some fiery
speeches, the "Buraydah Uprising" of 1993 was a break with tradition.
Today, at least, Al-Oudah is unwilling to risk more punishment.
He speaks the official line which condemns U.S. policies in Palestine
and Israel and Iraq. At times I try to turn the conversation. I know,
from various sources, that Al-Oudah is among those clerics who regularly
saw young men in the 1980s and 1990s who sought his blessing to travel
to Afghanistan to wage jihad, or holy war, against first Soviet and now
American infidels. He tells us that this did happen. But, he says, he
didn't give his blessing to men wanting to join Al Qaeda to fight
Americans. He tells me that he is appalled by what happened in New York
and Washington, and anyway, "We have strayed from discussing the issues
we agreed to." I am cut off.
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Martin Smith interviews Sheik Al-Oudah in Buraydah, Saudi Arabia. (photo by Chris Durrance) |
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I leave suspicious that Al-Oudah is not being straight with us and I
wonder what in this revered cleric's understanding of the Quran allows
him to be less than truthful. Another source has told me that bin
Laden's people were also extremely disappointed with Al-Oudah's public
stance on Al Qaeda after 9/11. For now, anyway, the once extremely
popular dissident, Sheikh Salman Al-Oudah, appears to be firmly in the
government's pocket.
When we wrap up to leave, it is past midnight. We have a four-hour
drive back to Riyadh. On the way out of town, we pass the shuttered
shops where during the day I saw the mutawa, the Saudi religious police,
patrol for anyone who exhibits any wayward behavior. Smoking is
forbidden here, as is photography of any kind, and anyone caught not on
their way to the mosque during prayer times can be arrested.
As we drive through the outskirts of Buraydah, I wonder about the
future of clerics like Al-Oudah and the people of this bastion of
Wahhabi Islam. I look out the window to see that at least one alternate
version of the future has arrived. I can't believe it, really. It's a
McDonald's franchise.
We arrive back at the Sheraton in Riyadh at 4:30 a.m. I wonder if we
will be arrested for photographing a McDonald's.
< previous dispatch + next dispatch >
|
London (Aug. 13-14) |
+ Zubaydah Is Dead 13 August, London |
+ Armchair Jihadists 14 August, London |
Gulf of Oman (Aug. 15-21) |
+ Faces at a Dubai Mall 15 August, Dubai, U.A.E. |
+ HMCS Algonquin 16 August, somewhere in the Gulf of Oman |
+ On Board the Algonquin 17-18 August, somewhere in the Gulf of Oman |
+ Like an Elephant Chasing a Mouse 17-18 August, Gulf of Oman |
+ Dubai to Karachi 20 August |
+ A Firehose of Information 20-21 August, Dubai - Muscat - Chennai |
Pakistan (Aug. 22-29) |
+ Old Hash 22 August, Islamabad |
+ Nuclear Neighbors 22-23 August, Islamabad |
+ We Believe in God 24 August, Islamabad |
+ Paranoid in Peshawar 27 August, Peshawar |
+ Bombs or Dust Devils 27-28 August, Peshawar |
+ Rumors and Half Truths 28 August, Peshawar |
Pakistan Border Lands (Aug. 30-Sept. 4) |
+ On the Road to Chitral 30 August, Dir Khas |
+ Prisoners' Dilemma 31 August, Dir |
+ In the Northwest Frontier 30-31 August, Dir |
+ Border Town 2 September, Chitral to Arandu |
+ Don't Go to Timargarha 1-2 September, Drosh to Timargarha |
+ An American Informer 3-4 September, Peshawar |
Pakistan (Sept. 5-23) |
+ Road to Nowhere 7 September, Islamabad to Faisalabad |
+ Faisal Town 7 September, Faisalabad |
+ Frustrations 9 September, Faisalabad |
+ The Plight of Women 10 September, Faisalabad |
+ A Little Noticed Gun Battle 10-13 September, Lahore-Karachi |
+ The Madrassa 14 September, Akora Khattak |
+ The Next Big Get 20 September, Karachi - Islamabad |
+ A Circle of Trust 21 September, Islamabad |
+ Indomitable 23 September, Islamabad |
Saudi Arabia (Sept. 24-Oct. 2) |
+ Inside the Kingdom 24-25 September, Riyadh |
+ My Baffling Question 27 September, Unizah-Buraydah |
+ An Obedient Dissident 27 September, Buraydah |
+ An Audience with the Crown Prince 2 October, Riyadh |
Yemen (Sept. 25-Oct. 10) |
+ Arriving in Yemen 25-26 September, Sana'a |
+ The Wedding Party 27 September, Sana'a |
+ A Talking Drug 28 September, Sana'a |
+ The World's Most Ancient Skyscrapers 3 October, Sana'a |
+ Americans Are Vampires 7 October, Sana'a |
+ Waiting for Rahma 9 October, Sana'a |
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