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+ "Faisal Town" 7 September, Faisalabad from Marcela Gaviria
Faisalabad, the third largest city in Pakistan, is a bustling
agricultural center that reminds me much of Peshawar except for its
Indian accents. There are camel-driven tongas and Punjabs instead of
Pashtuns.
The town was named after its main benefactor, King Faisal of Saudi
Arabia. It is a fitting name. Faisalabad is a deeply conservative and
religious town that serves as a home base to every radical Islamic
fundamentalist group in Pakistan. Here
are the headquarters to Sipa-e-Sahaba, Lashkar-e-Jangvi, Jaamat-e-Asumet,
Lashkar-e-Taiba, and Jaish-e-Muhammad.
Abu Zubaydah, Osama bin Laden's chief recruiter, came to Faisalabad
sometime in late February 2002, hoping to rely on a network of friends
belonging to Jaish-e-Muhammad. He posed as a merchant and rented a
sprawling marble mansion from a wealthy widow. This much we have been
able to verify.
Shabaz cottage, in Faisal Town, became the home of Abu Zubaydah and a
handful Al Qaeda members from places like Yemen, Saudi
Arabia, and Sudan. Neighbors say Zubaydah rarely ventured out into
the streets of Faisalabad. One neighbor wondered why the lights of his
imposing house were on 24 hours a day.
But that wasn't the give-away. Abu Zubaydah's cover was blown by a
soccer ball. At least that is the story we are told by a neighbor
through choppy translation. A child's soccer ball fell in the wrong
place and one of the Arabs in the house yelled at the children in
Arabic. Rumor has it that this happened as a police constable was
driving by. He was surprised to hear Arabic, in an Urdu-speaking town,
and hoping to secure a raise, or get promoted, or perhaps just do his
duty, he reported the incident to his superiors. Soon a cloud of FBI
agents had every radar pointed at the Shabaz cottage. Zubaydah's
satellite calls to Yemen, Saudi Arabia, and Palestine were monitored for
days.
We are hearing this story as we make our way to the Shabaz cottage
late one evening. It is pitch black outside and we are lost in some
neighborhood in the outskirts of Faisalabad looking for the house. Out
of the corner of my eye, a dozen men jump out of a Hi Lux jeep with
their machine guns. My heart skips a beat. The men are wearing black
caps, black T-shirts, black sweatpants, and are carrying heavy duty
submachine guns. It's hard to tell in the darkness of night if these are
radical extremists out to scare a group of foreigners or some
paramilitary police force trying to heard us back into our hotel rooms.
The logo on their T-shirts says "No Fear."
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Abu Zubaydah's house in Faisalabad. |
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The squadron of men turn out to work for the Punjab Elite Police
Force. We haven't asked for their protection, but it's not exactly a
choice. The commandos take us to Shabaz cottage and even pose for a few
shots outside the gates of the Al Qaeda compound. A man standing at the
roof of the house next door films us as we shoot the exteriors of the
house. I wonder if he is some kind of spy.
The next two days are spent trying to corroborate the details of Abu
Zubaydah's capture and arrest. The reporting is complicated by the
language barriers. We shake hands with various police officers, drink
tea at a handful of houses, work the system. Nobody can understand our
questions and we can't understand the answers.
For instance, during one interview, after I asked if there were any
Arabs arrested in the raid, this is the note our fixer handed over:
"Attached in this house a rental family leave that house. There were
five persons arrested in that person leave here."
< previous dispatch + next dispatch >
|
London (Aug. 13-14) |
+ Zubaydah Is Dead 13 August, London |
+ Armchair Jihadists 14 August, London |
Gulf of Oman (Aug. 15-21) |
+ Faces at a Dubai Mall 15 August, Dubai, U.A.E. |
+ HMCS Algonquin 16 August, somewhere in the Gulf of Oman |
+ On Board the Algonquin 17-18 August, somewhere in the Gulf of Oman |
+ Like an Elephant Chasing a Mouse 17-18 August, Gulf of Oman |
+ Dubai to Karachi 20 August |
+ A Firehose of Information 20-21 August, Dubai - Muscat - Chennai |
Pakistan (Aug. 22-29) |
+ Old Hash 22 August, Islamabad |
+ Nuclear Neighbors 22-23 August, Islamabad |
+ We Believe in God 24 August, Islamabad |
+ Paranoid in Peshawar 27 August, Peshawar |
+ Bombs or Dust Devils 27-28 August, Peshawar |
+ Rumors and Half Truths 28 August, Peshawar |
Pakistan Border Lands (Aug. 30-Sept. 4) |
+ On the Road to Chitral 30 August, Dir Khas |
+ Prisoners' Dilemma 31 August, Dir |
+ In the Northwest Frontier 30-31 August, Dir |
+ Border Town 2 September, Chitral to Arandu |
+ Don't Go to Timargarha 1-2 September, Drosh to Timargarha |
+ An American Informer 3-4 September, Peshawar |
Pakistan (Sept. 5-23) |
+ Road to Nowhere 7 September, Islamabad to Faisalabad |
+ Faisal Town 7 September, Faisalabad |
+ Frustrations 9 September, Faisalabad |
+ The Plight of Women 10 September, Faisalabad |
+ A Little Noticed Gun Battle 10-13 September, Lahore-Karachi |
+ The Madrassa 14 September, Akora Khattak |
+ The Next Big Get 20 September, Karachi - Islamabad |
+ A Circle of Trust 21 September, Islamabad |
+ Indomitable 23 September, Islamabad |
Saudi Arabia (Sept. 24-Oct. 2) |
+ Inside the Kingdom 24-25 September, Riyadh |
+ My Baffling Question 27 September, Unizah-Buraydah |
+ An Obedient Dissident 27 September, Buraydah |
+ An Audience with the Crown Prince 2 October, Riyadh |
Yemen (Sept. 25-Oct. 10) |
+ Arriving in Yemen 25-26 September, Sana'a |
+ The Wedding Party 27 September, Sana'a |
+ A Talking Drug 28 September, Sana'a |
+ The World's Most Ancient Skyscrapers 3 October, Sana'a |
+ Americans Are Vampires 7 October, Sana'a |
+ Waiting for Rahma 9 October, Sana'a |
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